Clutch My Heart, Céline

I like the idea of the smaller-than-A4 portfolio bag, or, dare I say, the clutch, on men. It would look as handsome with a dark suit to lunch as it would be with a tailored coat and sneakers running around town. In this day and age of paperless everything, why bother pretend we're carrying around all-important documents when all one really needs on him is lip balm, a Clif bar perhaps, and a handful of other little unmentionables?

Céline iPad portfolio in black and taupe (manipulated photo via Céline)

The Céline iPad portfolio is so plain and nondescript, it could be mistaken for a Filofax, and that's what I adore about it.

Open it up and the leaves of lambskin expand to reveal pockets of buttery beige suede goodness.

Shoot me for jumping on the Céline bandwagon, I dare you---but not before your fingertips meet the bags.

The Bag Maker's Project

A few weeks ago, I met this guy at a party at the Soho Grand, a bag designer, and he pulled out his phone and he showed me his stuff, and it was minimal and masculine and elegant---New York is great just like that, filled with brilliant, creative people who make beautiful things. Last week, I paid a visit to Will Lisak, the designer, and while he let me watch him craft a custom-order for a client, we had a little chat about his line ETWAS.

the ETWAS Standard # 1, the company's first bag (photograph via ETWAS)

The bags are elegant and minimal and simply crafted out of thick, sturdy leather. They are certainly heavy, and though the brand has plans of doing bags in lighter, thinner leather, there is a charm in carrying the rugged, thick-skin leather bags that only become more beautiful with age.

Tell us about ETWAS. What do you make, and what makes it different?

ETWAS is premised on the idea that the design of systems has more impact than just designing products. We want to make graceful objects in an equally graceful way, using means of production to reflect and manifest the aesthetic of our customers. When you buy an ETWAS bag you are not only conveying your sentiments through image, your aesthetic will is acting upon the world in more tangible ways.

ETWAS' designer, Will Lisak, at work

What made you shift into crafting bags after working in graphics and illustration?

I never wanted to make fake things. I decided I needed to pursue a project where I had total control and could design every step of the process. It was impossible for me then to tell a beautiful story via the medium of an ugly publishing industry. I'm not creating stories with vast and ephemeral worlds anymore as I was with illustration, but I am creating a small world and small narrative that is very tangible.

Will walked me through a few of the processes involved in making a bag. Holes are pre-punched into the leather before hand-sewing.

The corners on the thick leather are shaved off and rounded for a better hand-feel.

Lisak uses his own vegetable-based recipe to burnish and condition the leather.

Holes on straps are hand-punched as well.

What inspires you?

People. People with inventive ways of living that allow them to enjoy their lives to the fullest. They are the greatest designers.

my favorite piece, the ETWAS light pack in the special rough out black wax leather

The briefcase can be converted into a backpack by simply untucking the shoulder straps from under the flap.

Your bags are simply made and free of embellishments. What are your views on minimalism and design?

I think for what we are doing it is necessary. We are an egalitarian process, our workers are paid well, we are comfortable, but no one is getting rich. It's not a decadent process. It is empowering to the worker, and on the consumer end it is a bit rugged. Our customers are not afraid to get their hands dirty. So it's a bit socialist in that way I guess. There's not much decadence about it. The design needs to be clean then to be honest, and reflect the values of all involved. Not that I'm against decadence. It's just not suitable for this project.

a tote and the toolbag, which was originally designed to carry tools on vehicles, but has captured the fancy of many a menswear-loving woman

hardware finished with a hand-aged patina

I came across this quote on your website: "Consider not only the things we are making, but the things we are destroying." Tell us about your project, and why you choose to work this way.

I think I may have touched on this in the earlier questions, but basically we are interested in creating the most beautiful thing, and I feel it's cheating a bit when you make a beautiful product in an ugly system, which is easier, but you are making the world uglier at the same time as you are making something beautiful, so you're stuck. Not having much impact, just moving things around. I want to make the world less distasteful.

a sketch of a custom-designed duffel bag for a Canadian client

What are your plans for the future?

Our major plan is take advantage of our means of production in another way--because we are manufacturing ourselves we don't have to place large factory orders, and therefore do not have to standardize so much.

trying out a new mechanical (electricity-free) hand-sewing machine for the possibility of offering a line of machine-sewn bags at a lower price point

I want to make a line of bags that is scaleable, where customers and stores can alter the dimensions to their liking though an online interface. There is a lot of potential in giving people a little freedom, and no one else is really doing anything like this.

Will Lisak, Williamsburg, 1/11/12

ETWAS bags are available here.

Tech Tux

I'm at my uncle's in Boston for a quick holiday---the one who lives at the Ritz, acts more like a Gen-Yer than a baby boomer, flies to China for medical missions, the one who happens to have a pair of unworn Prada shoes in my size to be freely given away to his most favorite of nephews.

Prada patent leather lace-ups

I was hesitant at first; where was I to wear a pair of rubber-soled, pointy-toed black-tie shoes? But there was something about everything being so not of-the-moment: the patent, the pointy toe, the Prada Linea Rossa stripe at the bottom that made it so refreshing. It's the pair of shoes I'd wear with a hyper-heat-generating tuxedo or a tux made out of Tyvek.

In the late 90s, these brand badges were my holy grail when the red Prada Sport stripes crept a good centimeter and a half up the back of the heel. As tiny dashes today, I could learn to live with them, and even love them.

with my overused and much-loved Prada saffiano and nylon travel bag

What are your new shoe acquisitions?

Portfolio Perfection

These Gant Rugger portfolios in natural undyed leather and cognac leather are clean, simple perfection. They're part of a new leather goods line from the brand produced by Tärnsjö Tannery; a small family-owned company 2 hours north of Stockholm, which, in the early 1900's, was solely focused on making equestrian equipment for local farmers. The cognac would be the perfect compliment to a navy interview suit, and the natural undyed, all beat-up and muddied, would add a sense of soft earthiness to the sharpest-shouldered black Margiela suit. The belts and card cases look great as well, and the iPhone cases---if you're into that.

photo via Gant Rugger

Tech Pack

It helps to have a theme when packing. For this trip, I'm doing my version of tech: abstract digital prints, metallics, white leather, and a fragrance freshly prepared at a boutique-laboratory in Nolita.

Tim Hamilton X Ross Bleckner digital-print scarf, Casio calculator watch, Santal 33 by Le Labo, my old iPod, silver laminate Comme des Garcons wallet, white Prada bag

I'm off to Los Angeles in a few days for a vacation essential to my sanity. Angelenos, what must I see, shop, eat, do?

Sequins, Spots, and Self-expression

Last Saturday, I walked over the bridge to DUMBO in Brooklyn for their annual Arts Festival: a weekend-long celebration of "the best in local, national, and international art amid the breathtaking backdrop of the Brooklyn Bridge and the Manhattan skyline". It was an exhilarating afternoon---think Fashion's Night Out, minus all the tourists; swap fashion for art, and free drinks for food trucks. Expecting that the art set would be a little more accepting than the fashion folk, I decided to wear two items in the much-maligned materials, sequins and leopard print.

Illesteva sunglasses, Junya Watanabe x Comme des Garcons shirt, Black Sheep and Prodigal Sons bracelet, Uniqlo jeans, leopard-print shoes from Lane Crawford

The sequins on this Junya Watanabe shirt seem to be oxidized and almost crumpled, and are embroidered on to the faintly printed black-and-brown batik fabric with very thin copper wire.

This horsehair and leather bracelet, on loan from Black Sheep and Prodigal Sons, has been my alternative to the multiple-layered bracelets, a.k.a. "arm parties" that abound. Sometimes the most enjoyable parties are those you rock with just one else.

Prada saffiano briefcase and leopard-print shoes from Lane Crawford. I don't seem to be getting that much wear from these shoes in today's sole du jour, the Vibram thick wedge. I find the wearable comfortable footwear to be proper dress shoes with slim all-leather soles.

Enough about about my artfully put-together outfit, let me share with you the art my eyes saw at the DUMBO Arts Fair:

sparkling walls

and twinkling rain

light boxes

and backlit black shingles

love you

and f*ck you (It rotates!)

twigs

and twilight.

photographs by Tiffany Gong and Izzy Tuason

Under the Argentine Sky

While the rest of the fashion-world is recuperating from the rambunctiousness of New York Fashion Week, possibly en route to London for the city's shows, allow me to direct your attention southward, to South America---Argentina, in particular, from where my dear friend Sofia Sanchez Barrenechea hails, and from which she sources the most exceptional artisanal pieces for her new e-boutique Under Our Sky. Let me share with you the little chat I had with Sofia about style, and love, an obsession with a certain accessory and designer crushes, and the allure of her home country, Argentina.

Sofia at the salt lakes in Argentina

Tell me about your store, Under Our Sky.

Under Our Sky is the place where my sisters and I share what we like the most from Argentina. Here, we carefully select and commission different products and make them available to the rest of the world.

These sterling silver cufflinks by Marcelo Toledo, my favorites out of everything in the boutique, were inspired by the Argentine national flower, the Ceibo. They will definitely add that dark-sexy-earthy touch to this suit that Mr. Margiela is sure to send to me after reading this little blurb!

What made you start an e-boutique?

This project started when I was dazzled by my friend Celina Saubidet's jewelry (Cabinet Oseo). Her unique and stunning designs made me crazy and right away I started wearing them every single day.

This Cabinet Oseo gold-plated bones bracelet would look stunning worn over a black cashmere sweater with fitted sleeves.

Her pieces were so strong, that people all over New York would stop me to ask where they could get the pieces, but the answer was "A friend makes them in Argentina, sorry, but you can't get them here". This had been happening to me forever, always with Argentinian pieces, I would always get compliments about them!

Cabinet Oseo phalanx rings look particularly exceptional worn on each segment of the finger.

Even though I have a creative background, I've always felt a big interest in business and marketing so soon after I decided to start my own store where I would proudly promote and sell Argentinian Design (officially, as I had always naturally done it).

I've always found you to be charmingly offbeat, yet still very chic. Tell me about your aesthetic. What inspires you? Who are your favorite designers, fashion and non-fashion?

Sofia Sanchez Barrenechea by Cameron Krone for The New York Times

My aesthetic is a mix of classic and rock, always with a personal touch, either it's a vintage piece from my grandmother or flea market, or a one-of-a-kind necklace made by an unknown designer. I normally fall for a designer and wear it non-stop for a certain period and then mutate into something else but always keeping something from my last crush. For example, when I was in high school I was obsessed with scarves, even for insanely warm days, I wouldn't take them off. My teachers would threaten to not let me sit for an exam if I didn't take my scarf off (they thought I would faint otherwise), but I always managed to keep my scarf on, even to go to the beach. I'm not that crazy about them nowadays, but I can't help but spending hours going through the vintage collection of scarves from the lovely Chinese lady in the Chelsea Garage's Flea Market. Every time I come by she says, "Sofia! Look what I have for you today!"

I get inspired by people, I always feel attracted to talented and creative minds, so I try to surround myself with very smart and interesting people so that I always challenge myself to know more, explore different worlds, and try harder.

My favorite designers are mostly graphic designers and typography designers: Peter Saville, Milton Glaser, Alejandro Ros, Paula Scher, Juan Gatti, Stephan Sagmeister.

Fashion-wise, I like everything from Elio Fiorucci to Carolina Herrera, it all depends on the day. Rodarte, Nicholas Kirkwood, Jason Wu, Nicolas Ghesquiere, Alaïa...

Tell me about Argentina, I've never been. What are your favorite things to see, do, eat?

Well, it's amazing!!! It has the perfect mix of nature and culture, which I love. The Theater scene is evolving into very interesting scenarios. Every time I go I ask my genius friend Agustin Pruzzo (writer/actor/director) what's new and he always surprises me with the most unexpected plays.

When it comes to eating I have my all time favorites: Dulce de Leche La Salamandra (milk caramel) and Asados (Argentinian barbecues).

Argentinian asado (via The Daily Omnivore)

If I had to carry a knife around with me, this would be it. sterling silver asado knife with black leather sleeve by Marcelo Toledo

Meat there is delicious, it's taste is pure and naturally flavored, we never add any spices, as just a tiny bit of salt is all you need. A typical Bodegón is my favorite destination to enjoy a good piece of meat with friends, 'Los Amigos' or 'El Obrero' are among my top choices.

the menu at El Obrero Buenos Aires (via All Points Buenos Aires)

What are stylish people like in Argentina? What influences them? How do people dress on the street? To go out?

There's a funny saying about Porteños (people from Buenos Aires -people of the port) which I think portrays us quite accurately:

"A porteño is an Italian that speaks Spanish, dresses like a French and thinks is an English Lord."

With this I mean, Argentinians are very Classic in their style, and even though they might be up to date with international fashion trends, they don't really follow them. I also see Buenos Aires's fashion very much influenced by Rock and Roll, there's a big devotion for bands from the 70's to 90's which shows in many aspects of society.

When I think of Argentina, I think cow. These weekend bags by Catalina MZ make use of the hide in a way that is both chic and sophisticated, yet raw and rugged at the same time.

What is the fashion industry like in Argentina? Who are your favorite Argentinian designers?

I see in Argentina a vibrating design world growing bigger and stronger every day. There's a lot of talent and some designers really stand out and make honor to the word "Design" (which are the ones I select and sell on my site). Handmade products are my favorites, which makes it all much more interesting. Nowadays, I feel like people are not just seeking for safe and standardized products, but for stronger one of a kind extraordinary ones. My favorite designers/brands are Cabinet Oseo, Tramando, Federico de Alzaga for Aracano, Pablo Ramirez, Lucia Sanchez, Perez Sanz, Trosman.

This tribal chisel cuff by Marcelo Toledo combines forging, embossing and chiseling techniques.

What do you see in the future for Argentinian fashion, and for Latin American fashion in general?

I feel globalization will eventually guide us back to our roots and origins (hopefully!), and just like we will seek refuge in nature, we will want to dress with unique and special pieces, not something mass-produced of which there's ten million pieces of. I think Argentina might benefit from this.

sterling silver marine cufflinks by my favorite Under Our Sky designer, Marcelo Toledo

I know there's lots to look forward to in terms of the future of your very recently launched e-boutique, but what are the new things coming up that you're particularly excited about?

We are adding designers every day, mixing all sorts of products! What really excites me is when I have the chance of collaborating with designers and combine our ideas.

There's also another side to this project which really inspires me and fulfills me. We are soon going to start with our workshops season, where our designers will be teaching underprivileged young people in Argentina, design techniques and how to conceive design projects. A few months later they will develop their own project and present it to us. The best ones will be sponsored by us and their designs will be sold at UnderOurSky.com.

Also, Opening Ceremony is launching the year of Argentinian Designers this month and a lot of very talented designers will be having the opportunity to get worldwide recognition for it. I've contributed with this project in a few different ways for which I'm very excited to see the results!

Sofia, in jewelry by Aracano

photographs (unless stated otherwise) courtesy of Under Our Sky

The Monkey Shirt

Leave it to Miuccia to take an apostle of non-color into the bright side. Her secret weapon: monkeys.

long arms like a chimp's (monkey print shirt by Prada)

There was just something so compelling about that Prada spring 2011 show---in the convoluted mix of colors and curlicues, and creatures, all shrouded in the haze and heady daze of a 1920's Cuban burlesque club of the future---that I had to have a souvenir of that collection. Indulgent wordplay aside, for a collection so garishly colorful, it had a sense of history and an almost-darkness that made it infinitely more intriguing than today's throw-away color-blocks.

Number (N)ine sunglasses, Prada monkey shirt, Topman trousers, vintage shoes from Latvia

gargoyle-gray monkeys with pink bananas swinging upon ornate wooden cornices mounted on a Tigger-striped papered wall. Note the tone-on-tone fabric buttons, very much appreciated.

These multi-hued brown vintage lace-ups look like something a patron of that 1920's Cuban nightclub would wear, only they're from nearly halfway around the world. (vintage lace-ups from Latvia)

I thought the curvy lines on my Y-3 backpack echoed the curlicues on the shirt's print.

photos by Pop, Bop and Snap